I’m really excited about this week’s topic because I find there aren’t many wet felters exploring it. And that’s the usage of batts for wet felting.
Batts are more commonly used in needle felting, but they’re definetely worth exploring in wet felting too.
When applied right, batts can:
Also, if you're open to wet felting with batts as well as tops, you'll have a wider choice in colors, since often suppliers have a different color palett for batts and tops. And, in my experience, they produce a felt that is a bit different from the one made with tops: less shiny but smoother.
These are 3 new lessons about 3 different ways to lay wool batts, when to use them, as well as the advantages of working with them.
So, if this is something that sparks interest for you, you can access this week’s lessons by signing up for the ...
Yes! That's right. I've been working on a free felting membership and it's now available for you to enjoy :)
You see, I’ve been blogging and vlogging about wet felting for over a decade. And what I’ve noticed is that in those formats, it’s easy to lose track of what I’ve already covered since the information is scattered everywhere.
I also wanted a place where you could ask me questions in a way that other felters could also benefit from the answers. So, after considering the pros and cons of the different platforms, I decided this would be the best way to have everything under the same roof.
It's called The Dodo Sandbox because it's a place for you to play, experiment and grow your felting skills :)
The membership area is divided into the “core training” and different chapters or modules, each dedicated to a different topic. When you enter the members’ area, that’s exactly what you see.
Of course, I’ll be creating new...
One of the questions I'm asked most often in my live classes is "is this enough soap?"
Felters who aren't very experienced are often unsure about how much soap to apply to their wool fibers. But there are a couple of clues that can help you avoid drowning your project in foam. And that's what I'll go into today.
Before I get into that, I'd like to say that the best way to avoid getting your project too soapy is to add soap slowly and only add more when you notice it’s not enough.
This is why using soapy water is not my preferred method of adding soap to the wool. I like adding water, getting my hands soapy first and only then applying it to the fibers. This way I have more control over how much soap is going into the wool. If you use this method, the tips I have for you today make much more sense.
You’ll know you have the right amount of soap when:
1. The wool doesn't stick to your hands.
When you’re applying soap with the method I mentioned above,...
If you’ve followed my work for some time, you’ll know that something I constantly mention is how I like to teach in a way that empowers you to develop your style and explore your creativity.
I see no point in just showing you how to felt an object. When I’m developing my courses, my goal is always to go into the details and the reasons why I’m using a particular technique. That way, you can apply what you’ve learnt in a different project, so you’re free to develop your own designs. That allows you to grow way beyond the methods taught in a tutorial.
That’s one of the reasons I was so happy when I got an email from Audrey Petzold a couple of weeks ago. Audrey bought the tutorial “Felt Food – Fruit” last April and she wanted to know if the basic procedures I used for making the toy fruits could be scaled up to make life size fruits.
I told Audrey it was perfectly possible, and that she just had to make sure that the inner...
There are thousands of ways you can decorate a wet felted project. Some just involve wool, others can include silk or other fabrics, as you know. This is then called Nuno felting. But today I bring you a sample that contains wool, silk and something else.
I wanted to show you an example of how you can use a transparent piece of silk to hold any type of synthetic material, that wouldn’t otherwise attach to wool. In this case, I’ll be using a pre-felt and a piece of white silk chiffon with the same size as the pre-felt. Alternatively, you can lay merino wool tops or batts, and use light gauze instead of silk.
TIP # 1 – USE LIGHT GAUZE INSTEAD OF SILK TO MAKE YOUR EXPERIMENTS CHEAPER
I’m also using circles of a synthetic golden fabric (that doesn’t attach to wool), but you can choose countless other materials like small beads or sequins, for example.
If you’re making a sample, please remember to measure the size of the wool now and after shrinkage....
You plan the piece you want to make.
You draw and cut the resist.
You lay your wool.
Everything is going great, but when you start fulling, your felt just seems to be stuck. Somehow the wool just doesn’t seem to become compact. In fact, nothing seems to happen.
You’ve been felting for hours and you feel tired. What started out as fun is now getting on your nerves. So, you decide to stop.
But then you ask yourself:
WHAT HAPPENS TO MY PROJECT IF I STOP NOW?
IS MY PIECE RUINED?
SHOULD I JUST LEAVE IT ON THE TABLE LIKE THIS? (I ACTUALLY NEED THE TABLE!)
I DON’T EVEN KNOW WHAT WENT WRONG!
Do you recognize the scenario? It’s happened to me dozens of times. The difference when it happens now is that I know exactly what to do.
So – because I suspect it’s happened to you too – I wanted to bring you a couple of tips today on what to do.
Let’s start with “what went wrong”
Well, felting is a physical but also a chemical process. That...
Today I’ve got a fun tutorial that shows you how to wet felt a ball necklace for children. It’s called Kid’s Dots, and it’s a piece I’ve sold for a long time. Now you get to see how it’s done (for FREE)
I decided to film this project because Stacy Tavassoli from Truly Majestic invited me to create a tutorial for her arm knitting community. Arm knitting is done with big amounts of wool roving, the same we use for wet felting. But it produces lots of scraps that you can’t use for knitting any more.
So here it is for you. It’s an easy tutorial, which is great for beginners. You won’t need much equipment. Actually, you probably have everything you need at home already. And it shows you 10 tips that are useful for other felting projects.
I’d love to see how your necklaces turned out, so click here to send me your photos
Welcome to the first episode of my new Q&A series.
If you still have trouble finding the right way to make a resist for a 3D wet felted object, this episode is for you.
Today’s question is from Kathryn, from Walla Walla, in Washington state.
And Kathryn writes:
“I am trying to make a wet felted case for my son’s new MacBook Pro computer. I viewed your template making video for the clutch bag – thinking I could use that for my effort.
I made the template and started to lay out the wool and realized that I didn’t know why I needed the top resist.
You have a resist that has a top and bottom, when I thought I only needed the bottom to cover with wool, so that I could make the pocket.
If I don’t intend the top to have a pocket, why do I need the top part of the template?
I ended up cutting the template in half and placing the top part under the bubble wrap to serve as a guide, as I wanted the top to cover the bottom of the bag as I see...
If you’ve been felting for some time, and you also use the pieces you felt, I’m sure you’ve already had this problem.
No matter how carefully you lay your wool or how resistant your piece has been felted, if you’re using it often, sooner or later its surface will be worn-out. And this is even more obvious if the piece has a pattern.
That’s normal. It’s just the way wool is.
That’s exactly what happened to this bag, that I’ve been using on a daily basis for the last 2 years.
But it’s a bag I really enjoy, so I decided to repair it. Now, as you know, it’s extremely difficult to make new fiber attach to the wool that’s already been densely felted.
Still, there is a solution, and that’s what I’ll be showing you in this video.
Hope you enjoy it!
P.S.: Do you have other ideas on how to repair felt? If so, you’re welcome to share them in the comments below.
Today I’ve got a short video for you.
It’s on a subject that I haven’t heard anyone talk about yet: recycling felted wool rests.
It might not seem very important to you, if you’re just starting out with felting. But if it’s something you do on a regular basis, I bet you’ve already asked yourself what you should do with all those bits and pieces that you got from cutting parts off your projects or from items that just didn’t turn out the way you expected.
To me this is really something important. I work with high quality wool (with the certifications Öko-Tex® Standard 100 and Global Organic Textile Standard), so it would never cross my mind to throw away any rests. I keep every little bit, even the pieces my students don’t want to save, when I’m teaching live workshops ? This means I ended up with bags full of all shapes and colors, and I really wanted to do something with them.
When I started filming my latest felting...