The Dodo Blog

Like everybody else, when I first started wet felting, I didn’t have a style or a voice. I wasn’t even thinking about having one. I was just trying to figure out how I could make the pieces I saw others do and, above all, understand how wool behaves.

If that’s where you are right now, know that everyone goes through that phase. And, if you’re a bit further, starting to feel the desire to have your own style, to create work that other people recognize as being yours, know that it’s a phase as well. So, no matter which phase you’re in, it’s all ok.

We don’t start with a style. We develop one. And developing your own felting voice is a journey. Like any creative path, it evolves through different phases. Some of them are exciting and others are confusing. But all of them are necessary.

Phase #1: Imitation AKA learning by following

Aside from artists who were already working with other media and then decide to bring a new medium, wet felt, into their already existing style, this is ...

Is there anything more discussed in wet felting than how to get the shrinkage you want? I don’t think so. And it’s kind of obvious, isn’t it? I mean, if wool felts by shrinking, we need to know how much it’ll shrink. Right?

The problem is so many factors influence shrinkage. So, it can all feel overwhelming, especially if you don’t have much experience in wet felting yet.

But you won’t feel overwhelmed if you stick to a couple of principles (that are the same every time) and you do something you may be resisting: you make a sample 😉

You may think there’s no need to make one, because you’re trusting some myths that are common on the internet. Let’s have a look at a few of them.

Myth #1: If you use the same wool (breed), your shrinkage rate will always be the same.
Does an 18-micron Merino wool top shrink the same as a 21-micron Merino wool top? Does an 18-micron Merino wool top shrink the same as an 18-micron Merino wool batt, do you think? The answer to both questions is NO.

The s...

After experimenting with wet felting for some time, learning the basics and maybe even felting some pieces on a resist, you may feel you’d like your felt to become more professional and well finished. Yet, you may also not know what to do to get to that next level of quality you’d like to achieve.

So, I’ve put together a list of resources for intermediate felt makers, to help you exercise some aspects of your craft and get to that quality you’re dreaming of.

START BY WORKING ON THE QUALITY OF YOUR FLAT FELT

I find working on the quality of your flat felt is sometimes underrated. Felt makers are often excited about moving on to the next challenging technique and forget about the impact of being able to produce an excellent flat felt.

Of course, that’s understandable, since we all want to learn new things. And, still, I’d love to convince you this is one of the most important things you can do to become a better felt maker.

Here are some clues that you should be working on perfec...

In the last couple of weeks, I’ve been making big pre-felt sheets for a piece I’m working on. And every single one of them has given me problems felting.

This can happen for several reasons. It either has something to do with the amount of soap or water, or with the temperature. When this happens, something chemical is off. So, the process stops.

But, in the end, it’s not so important to know the exact reason for this to occur. The important thing is to know how to solve it, so that you can go on with the felting.

Along the years, I’ve learnt that the solution is to change something. Depending on what I’m making, and on which stage the piece is in, I can opt for a couple of different strategies.

I’m sure you can resonate with what I’m talking about. See if you can recognize this scenario (or a similar one).

I laid out my wool, added water and soap, and gave it a quick rub. And I started rolling straight away. After rolling for a long time (like over half an hour), nothing seemed...

In the last video, we had a look at how we can create a fine and flexible felt using only Merino wool. And today we’re going to see what happens when we add viscose fiber to our fine Merino.

For our experiment to make sense, we’re going to use the same 30cm x 30cm template and we’re also going to use 6g of fiber.

If you can remember, in the last video we used 6g of Merino to create our sample. And what we’re going to do today is use 6g of fiber again, but we’re going to have 4g of wool and 2g of viscose. Ok?

If you’d like to do this sample with me, get your materials, and just follow the instructions in the video.

Be sure to check out the differences between the two samples: the one made with only Merino, and the one where I added the viscose.

And if you’re not very familiar with the type of layout I use in this video (chevron layout), you can download a PDF with all the details about all the main layouts used in wet felting here.

I’ll see you next week, when we go through the th...

Last week we spoke about a couple of misconceptions and some tips to avoid making your felt too stiff. If you haven’t read that blog post, I recommend you start there, since it’s part of a video series I’m recording for you on this topic.

And if you’re stuck in your felting journey and don’t know what to do next, I’ve created a guide to help you. You can download it here.

Today we’re going to see how we can apply last week’s tips in a practical way. So, we’ll be making a piece of flat felt. In other words, a sample.

So, get some merino wool and let’s do this. All you need to do is follow the instructions in the video.

Enjoy!

P.S.: Make sure you come back next week, since we’ll go on diving deep into this topic.

Have you ever had your felt become too stiff? Have you wondered why that happens? Have you tried making it thinner, but ended up with a lot of holes? These are common issues that many felt makers face. Let’s have a look at how to solve that, so that you never have to waste all those beautiful materials again.

I find there are many misconceptions about how to avoid making your felt too stiff. So, to start, I want to have a look at some of the most common ones.

Misconception #1 – There’s a certain number of layers I have to use for a particular item

You see, the thing is that it’s not about the layers. Please don’t ask how many layers are needed for a piece! Someone else’s layers may be much thicker or thinner than yours. So, what you need to know is how much wool to use. You don’t believe me? Then, try this:

• On a 25 cm square (or 10-inch square), lay out 4g divided into 4 layers. Then felt it.
• Next, do the same, but with 12g. So, on a 25 cm square, lay out 12g divided into 4 l
...

When we start wet felting, there is so much to learn about the many techniques that fit under this wider umbrella, that this alone can be enough for felt makers to focus on, without ever taking a deep dive into the attributes of the fibers from different sheep breeds.

So, often it’s people who have sheep or who live in rural areas, who – early in the process – start looking at how to use the wool of local breeds in their felting, as a way to take advantage of what’s available in their closest environment.

For those of us who live in cities, it’s impractical (or even unthinkable) to buy raw wool, clean it in the bathtub, and do all the processing in an apartment. So, we resort to buying processed wool from suppliers, and so are restricted to the available breeds.

Like me, you may very well be in this second group of felt makers. And, if you are – like me – you probably haven’t spent much time looking at the incredible number of different wool types that are available throughout the w...

I don’t use stiffeners often. But sometimes they can be useful, especially for sculptural wet felting. The problem with stiffeners is finding one that doesn’t make your work very hard, and still lets your felt look natural.

As in many other aspects of felt making, there are different opinions about this. Mine is that using a stiffener should never mean having your work look like plastic, and the stiffener itself should be as natural as possible.

I’ve researched this topic over the years, looking at information from milliners, as well as at solutions from crafters to harden textiles. But I have to say the suggestions I found never quite fit what I was looking for. There’s much online about sugar water or using starches made of corn or wheat flower, as well as several very chemical products used by milliners.

The first idea that made sense to me was a suggestion from a fellow felt maker, who recommended Arabic gum. My research quickly showed me it wasn’t an expensive product. So, I de...

If you were among the people who read last week’s post about the book “Schafwolle verarbeiten” and thought: “Ya, looks great, Vanda. But what will I do with a book in German?”, I’ve got you covered.

I’ve just received another book on wool I had ordered recently. This time in English. And I can assure you – if you’re keen on learning more about animal fibers – it’s a great investment as well.

“The Fleece & Fiber Sourcebook” is authored by Deborah Robson & Carol Ekarius, and it first came out in 2011.

It’s not a felting book per se. Rather, it completely focuses on fiber and actually covers 200+ animals.

Here’s its description for more detail:

“This one-of-a-kind photographic encyclopedia features more than 200 animals and the fibers they produce. It covers almost every sheep breed in the world from the longwool breeds of the United Kingdom to the Tasmanian merino, the Navajo churro, the northern European Faroese, and dozens and dozens more. It also includes goats, camelids (such ...